Distance: 167.5km
Ascent: 9,457m
Time Limit: 46 hours
Start/Finish: Chamonix, France
Finish Time: 40:16:43
I wasn’t expecting to get a place in the 2017 UTMB! I applied in the hope that I would perhaps get a place in 2018 or 2019. I somehow managed to secure a place via the entry lottery so didn’t want to turn it down.
We arrived into Chamonix on Wednesday and planned to get acclimatized on Thursday. The weather was nice but the forecast for the next few days was looking much worse. There was uncertainty if the full route would be used or a safer alternative taken instead. The communication from the organizers on this was poor; they kept promising texts at particular times which never arrived.
It turns out the 2 highest peaks would be modified. Croix des Pyramides Calcaires and Tete au vents would be rerouted resulting in about 3.5k less overall. This could have been way worse so I was happy enough with the decision.
We went up to Le Brevent (2525m) on Thursday to acclimatize but it was freezing, cold and windy. We didn’t want to spend long up here and I ended up buying a new rain jacket when back in town as the taped seams on my Inov-8 jacket had peeled off. It was definitely going to rain on the route so was happy I made the decision to get a new jacket. I wasn’t the only one doing this judging by what stock was left in the shops.
Bruised and blistered feet have always gotten the better of me at the UTMB races. This time, I needed to take more care. I lost 5 toenails on the Wicklow Way Solo this year due to wet feet, grit in my shoes and generally not addressing issues as they appeared. The only positive out of this was not having either big toenail starting the UTMB as they are likely candidates for black toenails ! I spent about an hour after lunch on race day taping blister prone areas and covering my feet in blister prevention powder. Gaiters would also be used to prevent any debris getting into my shoes.
Like last year I chose hill training and gym work over long runs. I hadn’t run more than 30k since June but ensured that my 2 main sessions each week included at least 800m ascent. I was visiting a trainer once a week with my wife to focus on leg strength and high intensity HIIT workouts to improve my lactate threshold and make my quads ready for the downhills. I had DOMS for 3 days after each session so I knew this was going to help eventually!
The downhills are really the toughest part of this race in my opinion. The climbs are no doubt long and challenging, but hiking up them is always possible. If your legs are not prepared for how harsh the downhills are then you’ll know all about it after the first few descents which will restrict you from running parts of the course that are actually runnable!
I was raising money for my employers chosen charity, Pieta House so that would encourage me to finish even when I was feeling rough.
The atmosphere in Chamonix is electric as usual. Some runners queue up and sit down into their preferred starting spot up to 2 hours in advance. I arrived at 6pm for the start 30 mins later and squeezed into an area near the back which didn't bother me as I wanted to start conservatively. I decided to wear my rain jacket from the start which was a mistake as it didn’t get cool until about midnight. We were given a flag to add to the back of our packs which really encouraged conversation with certain nationalities.
It took 10 mins to get going properly and once there was space I sped up and overtook some runners. I felt good and had the thought that I should run the flats and moderate hills while still feeling fresh and had no foot issues.
The climb up to Le Delevret wasn’t too taxing but the descent into Saint-Gervais was steep and a bit slippery due to the mud. It was starting to get dark at the end of this descent so out with the head torch. It still wasn’t cold but I was sweating like mad with my jacket on.
Saint-Gervais is a big, busy checkpoint full of amazing supporters. The live music here is a great distraction and makes the whole event seem like a big party. I wasn’t worried about water intake due to it being much colder but still took a salt tablet every hour in the hope that it would prevent any cramping.
It’s quite a gradual ascent into the next aid station but kept a strong pace here before being forced to hike up the second ascent.
Time is moving fast when I arrive at La Balme with 6h30 done so far. It’s still really packed so eager to speed up a bit.
I kept pushing the pace as I still felt strong and knew the climb up Croix du Bonhomme would be long and slow. I was getting texts off Audrey saying that I’m flying and maybe I should relax a bit!
It’s the middle of the night when I arrive at Les Chapieux and one of the longest ascents is ahead. The checkpoint is well equipped so grab some soup and coffee but seem to get cold really quickly so waste no time getting out of there. It’s good for the head at this stage to realize that once you reach the top of this climb the sun will start rising and there will be a nice bit of downhill to look forward to.
Arriving at Col de la Seigne just after 6am felt good despite the wind and cold. The descent involves some technical switchbacks but lots of opportunity to run here and make good progress towards the next checkpoint.
It doesn’t take long to see the Lac Combal tent in the distance and what a motivator it is to get moving down there for some breakfast!
I arrive just before 7am, have a quick sit down, have some and a quick coffee. I felt so bad here last year that it was refreshing to still feel OK this time after 12 hours on the go.
The Live Trail website was providing estimates on when I would arrive into Courmayeur and Audrey was texting me saying that I’m expected there just before 10am!
I was talking to a chap from Scotland about the UK Lakelands races on the ascent up to Arrête du Mont-Favre which was interesting and helped time pass. I stopped to take a few pics as this part of the route is amazing and the sun was rising steadily after a wet night. Knowing we were close to Courmayeur was a great feeling.
Col Checkruit is a busy, friendly and lively aid station. The weather was sunny here but I was really nervous about the upcoming 4k descent into Courmayeur as it’s steep and fast. The terrain was dry and dusty which was surprising considering the rain on the rest of the course during the night.
I fell into a line of about 7 runners who were descending fast, so I just tried to keep up and the pace seemed to suit me after some time. I still had no foot issues so enjoyed this part even though it was tough on the legs.
I arrived in Courmayeur after 15 hours and felt excellent. Audrey was waiting for me and she was allowed in area with runners unlike last year. She ensured I had everything and also made sure I didn't spent too long here. I didn't want to touch my feet or shoes as there were amazingly no issues to address. The time invested on my feet before starting was well worth it.
It was a warm and sunny morning. I bumped into Ivan from the North which was surprising as he’s a much stronger runner than me. Turns out he’d been having stomach issues the last few hours. We chatted for a bit and then I marched on. It’s is a long, steep climb up to the next checkpoint and really exposed to wind and sun.
It feels good reaching Refuge Bertone and it’s an opportunity to stock up on supplies before a rolling 7km stretch to the next aid station with a few unexpected climbs. I started feeling tired here and a bit anxious to get to the next aid station.
Refuge Bonatti is windy and horrible and just want to get out of there. Had hassle filling my reservoir and almost dropped my phone into the fountain. Fresh faced hikers are on the trails too at this stage and cheering us on.
I felt really rough here and needed a sit down. My toes started to get a bit uncomfortable as my feet were swelling. I removed my 2nd sock layer which really helped reduce the pressure and also tightened my top laces to ensure toes would not hammer the front of my shoes on the descents.
Poor Ivan is here and sick again. He did a great job catching up to me and I later learned that he finished in 39 hours, so respect to him for slogging it out.
A long descent followed and I started feeling crap and really strange so took a caffeine gel to snap me out of mood. I didn’t ever feel like I had a low point from lack of calories, it felt more like the sleep deprivation and altitude were making me feel bad.
Downhill, downhill, heavy rain and loads of mud. I was using my poles just to avoid slipping.
It felt great to arrive at Arnouvaz but when I saw the massive crowd inside the small tent I knew something was wrong. The rain got heavier as soon as I sat down and spoke to some Turkish guys who commented on the weather. Turns out the volunteers were insisting on full waterproof gear before runners were allowed to leave. Lots of punters were throwing in the towel at this stage. I thought for a moment that the race could get cancelled here because the weather was so bad.
I put on all my gear including waterproof trousers, 3 pairs of gloves, warm hat, cap, poncho, hood and buff to get ready for one of the toughest climbs.
Grand Col Ferret was impossible: wind, rain, snow. Had serious low point and couldn't ascend more than 10 steps without catching my breath for 20 seconds. My nose was dripping all over the place from the cold and I didn’t want to cover my face with a buff because that made breathing even harder. I kept looking back at other people ascending and couldn’t comprehend how they were still allowing people come up the mountain in these conditions.
A fellow Irishman Brendan Murphy introduced himself which was cool as I felt so crap. Seems I was really low on calories so ate an energy bar and that really helped. The altitude was still a massive issue though. Brendan knew all the Irish doing race and provided an update on their progress. He seemed to be going strong but encouraged me to go on ahead.
My feet did get slightly wet a few times here but think the powder and cream helped wick the moisture from my skin. The poncho was great to keep off the heavy rain and I was delighted Audrey packed that item for me. My first layer of gloves was a pair of heavy duty Marigolds which kept me warm and dry but started to cause chilblains which was absolute agony. My fingertips burned so bad. I don't think the Marigolds are meant to be the first glove layer! Lesson learned.
The descent into La Fouly was long and really cold but I remembered the route from last year which made it easier mentally. I felt really strong compared to an hour before so ran fast and overtook about 50 people as I knew the checkpoint was so close. It was dark when I arrived here in 2016 so was reassuring to know that this year I was here about 2 hours ahead of the darkness.
I didn't hang around long in La Fouly and tried to run most of the descent to Champex. I chatted to Craig from Arizona and learned lots about American ultras. My focus at this stage was just getting to Champex and then dealing with the last part of the race. Some children had a table setup outside their house and were offering coffee and tea to any runners who wanted it, perfect.
I chatted to an Israeli guy who seemed pissed off and he asked if we would be back in Chamonix at about 2am. I told him not a chance and more like 11am when we would be finished. He dismissed this and slowed down. I felt sorry for him as he was clueless of the remaining effort involved.
I warned Craig about the upcoming ascent to Champex and to allow at least 1h15 to make it up there. This part is always a long slog but manageable if you know roughly how long it will take.
It was great to see Audrey at Champex Lac. She got me all the food I wanted and I was then ready for the remaining 44k. From a psychological perspective I was on the last stretch even if 3 killer ascents and descents remained. I would pick off each mountain individually and try not think too much about the 13 hours of effort that remained.
It’s great to get some music going at this stage and run properly, as the trails are mostly flat until the Plan De L’au checkpoint. I had some song in my head for the last few days so decided to stick that on repeat and get moving.
I was in a trance from listening to music in the dark and felt that I could run forever ! I had my time chart from last year which helped me estimate how long each segment might take. This really worked well as the next section before Trient will last about 4 hours if going by last years’ time.
La Giete is a random checkpoint that appears out of nowhere in the complete darkness. A few people were sitting inside an old farm shed looking really rough and tired. I knew it was the wrong place to stop so wanted to wait until Trient for a proper sit down.
We spent ages at high altitude going through fields etc. before the descent into Trient. There were no cows out this year which was strange. They usually cover the trails and appear stunned by all the head torches. This descent is long and constantly fools you into thinking you are at the bottom!
A quick pit stop at Trient and off we go again, 2 climbs remaining.
A French lady asked me to get some blue pills from her backpack that she couldn’t reach. Spent 5 mins looking for them and we didn’t find anything, annoying!
I felt a small pebble under my big toe and tried to dismiss it by moving it around the shoe. It kept coming back to bother me but thankfully it wasn’t causing any friction.
Trient is the second last big hill which I found really hard because I was short of breath again. This ascent last year went really well and I thought it would be the same this time around.
I saw the French lady again near Les Tseppes asking someone else to find her blue pills and then she comes up behind us and says pardon, pardon so we’ll get out of the way!
The descent into Vallorcine is as bad as the previous one, rocks, tree roots, streams, mud, loads of mud! but it’s great to know that the only other descent remaining would be into the finish. It’s busy at the Vallorcine checkpoint but great to know that there is just one ascent left!. I needed plenty of coffee and Coke at this stage as feeling really sleepy. I was running low on caffeine gels which was a concern as they helped with sleep deprivation. Clare and some other Irish runners talked about Pro Plus caffeine tabs instead of caffeine gels. I definitely want to try these in the future. An American guy is in bits and his wife is worried. I assure them that the final climb won’t be as bad as the usual Tete au Vent route.
I started the walk over to the final ascent towards the Tete au vents. The route was modified so we actually wouldn’t summit this peak but instead take a long up and down route up towards La Flegere.
I walk for about 30 mins and experience crazy hallucinations. A cottage roof appeared to be tiled with magazine covers, then a runner ahead was bouncing, doing jumping jacks and flying forward and back. I knew I was hallucinating so kept looking away, but every time I looked back this person was doing some crazy moves. It was all in my head.
I tripped 3 times while almost falling asleep and nearly walked straight into a family of 4. I didn’t want anyone to talk to me because I felt very strange in my sleep deprived state.
A white rock appeared to me as a white poodle where I could make out all the details of the dog including the eyes, legs etc. It was just a white rock.
Leaves on the ground lit up like massive light bulbs that covered the trail. This was getting too much.
I started chatting to an English chap called Wayne which really helped as we were both suffering. We talked about ultras in Spain, UK and some natural energy gels he was carrying.
The route to La Flegere was long and challenging over uneven terrain where we ascended then descended over rocks, tree roots etc. and then found a sign that said 1h40 to La Flegere! I said to my new friend Wayne that we could probably walk faster but it still took a good hour.
We finally came out of the forest and could see the ski station where we were headed. It was another cruel ascent to the top but felt great arriving there. The sun was out so I ditched some clothes and felt much cooler.
I had a quick coffee here and emptied my shoes of small pebbles which really helped. We were so happy to have just 7k distance with 900m descent remaining and were keen to run the whole thing even if it hurt. We overtook quite a few runners on the way down but also encouraged them to get a move on as we were almost home! I was walking all this last year due to blisters so it was a joy to run this time around.
I finally made it off the trails where Audrey was waiting and then it’s a 1k run to the finish line. It’s always possible to run this part no matter how tired you are as there are so many amazing supporters out to cheer you on. Chatted to a few people at the finish who I ran with at some stage and grabbed the free beer on offer.
We had a great dinner with other Irish runners on Sunday evening and discussed how it went for them. Flew to Palma, Majorca the day after and suffered from really swollen ankles which went back to normal 2 days later. It's possible that too many salt tablets and the flying caused this swelling.
I would like to return and improve on my time but reckon I’ll leave it for a few years. I’m enjoying going faster in races so will stick to more runnable routes in Ireland next year and perhaps Lavaredo in 2019.
Huge thanks to my wife Audrey who sacrificed proper holidays this year to follow me around the Mont-Blanc in the cold and rain.
